Introducing... Intellectual Cleavage

I’d like to introduce you, dear readers, to my main man, Haider Ackerman. No, I don’t know him personally or anything like that, but I thought YOU should be made aware of his gifted and talented self. Ackermann is of Colombian descent and attended Antwerp Fashion Academy of Fine Arts where luminaries Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester also learned their craft. His work mimics Rick Owens’ use of innovative leather work and ultramodern draping. Is he “biting” Owens’ designs, as they say in the hip hop world? You be the judge.

He is a favorite designer of actress Tilda Swinton and dressed her for the 2009 Cannes Film Festival. I think she looks like an alien, but in this case I will admit she has good taste. She is one scary-looking woman.

Fall 2009


First, we have this trendy one-shoulder top with wrapped, folded and draped jersey in black, very Rick Owens, hard to tell the difference between the 2 designers sometimes.


Low necklines, long skirts of silk in smoky tones, and this leather jacket (above) is almost identical to the classic Rick Owens leather motorcycle jacket that I just tried on in Miami ($2600+, nope, not buying it… YET).


I particularly love this plunging neckline. You must be somewhat flat-chested to wear this look, but while not “demure,” it is not trashy in the least. It’s an example of what I like to call “Intellectual Cleavage.” Not the Pamela Anderson kind... but something a sophisticated, edgy lady would wear. The wrapping of the lower leg – where you struggle to distinguish between pant, boot, and the gold sock or whatever that is between the two – is especially interesting.


The red pieces are the strongest in my opinion, in a rich blood burgundy leather, fringe, and twill. This is another example of intellectual cleavage, just showing a hint of skin where the jacket closes. But the real story with this outfit is the mixing of textures, supple leather, multi-toned red fringe belt and the smooth twill of the jacket.

Spring 2010 “A Passage to India”


According to Ackermann, the increased popularity of and attention to his work made him want to use a different palette: “It made me want colors, brightness.”


He did not leave black and charcoal behind entirely (see black leather vests and grey leather belted shorts), but added saffron and navy satin to his collection in these striking pieces. I have always had a weakness for indigo satin.

While he may be a Rick Owens copycat, I am sold on his designs. I’m a believer! Could he be the next creative force behind Maison Martin Margiela? Stay tuned.